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Points of interest in Lerma

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A walk with José Zorrilla
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A walk with José Zorrilla

In this short urban walk that we propose, you will walk the same streets where the illustrious poet José Zorrilla fell in love, had a bad time, started deep friendships and wrote some of the most beautiful verses dedicated to our beloved Arlanza River. His best known work, Don Juan Tenorio, is dedicated to one of his youthful friendships, which began precisely in our ducal villa, and he dedicated it to her "so that her name would live with mine a few more days after our death". Walking through our streets, Zorrilla will tell you a small part of his life, which is also part of our life and our history. Will you join us?

Tourist Office
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Tourist Office

The Center for Tourist Initiatives (C.I.T.) of Lerma is a non-profit association that, since 1993, collaborates in the promotion, conservation and dissemination of tourist services in Lerma and the Arlanza region. The office is open from Tuesday to Saturday, from 09:00 to 14:00h and from 16:00 to 19:00h, and Sundays, from 09:00h to 14:00h. Through the office, you can access the following services and activities: - Tourist information - Baroque Walks - Entrance to the passage of the Duke of Lerma - Entrance to the Collegiate Church of San Pedro - Dramatized night tours - Discover another Lerma under your feet (visits to the subsoil) Follow the activities in Lerma and the region through the social networks of the Tourist Office: Facebook Twitter

Collegiate Church of San Pedro
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Collegiate Church of San Pedro

Its construction began in 1613 thanks to the collaboration of the uncle of the Duke of Lerma, Cristóbal de Rojas y Sandoval, archbishop of Seville. Fray Alberto de la Madre de Dios was commissioned to enlarge an existing church. It has a hall plan with three naves and next to the building rises a tower on which was placed the typical Herrerian spire of the Austrias. Inside, the main altarpiece, which has been replaced by another of the eighteenth century, was made by Francisco Velázquez and the sculptural decoration belonged to Gregorio Fernández. In the presbytery there is a statue in praying position of the archbishop of Seville previously mentioned, carried out by Juan de Arfe and Lesmes Fernandez del Moral according to the style of Pompeyo Leoni. The organ of 1616 by Diego Quijano and the inlaid table of Italian style of the XVII century are interesting and valuable.

Convent of San Blas Community of Dominican Mothers
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Convent of San Blas Community of Dominican Mothers

The convent was connected to the Palace by a passageway with three arches until the 19th century. The foundation of the Dominican monastery of San Blas was the proudest of all the religious buildings erected by the Duke in Lerma. As he held the patronage of the Order and according to the dispositions of the Council of Trent, in 1612 he transferred the Community that lived in Tovar (Cifuentes) to his town. Fray Alberto de la Madre de Dios made the traces of the convent and the main altarpiece is the work of Juan Gómez de Mora, who took advantage of some pieces of an old altarpiece. It is distributed in four architectural bodies, with columns, pilasters, niches, all gilded. The canvases are by the Duke's painter Pedro Antonio Vidal. In the center, a niche with a seventeenth century carving of San Blas with the relics of the Saint in the chest; very venerated on February 3 with the blessing of the typical donuts of sweet or bread. In the transept stands out the Crucified Christ, of the Castilian School of Gregorio Fernandez of the XVII century, and the Virgin of the Rosary of great beauty and artistic quality. The dome of half orange and lantern, whose duplicated pillars raise four toral arches with their pendentives and with stripes between squares and triangles. The large vaulted room behind the monastery church houses a valuable reliquary donated by the Duke. It is currently inhabited by the cloistered Dominican Sisters and they make colorful hand-painted ceramic works. The Community is also known as "the nuns of Whatsapp", since thousands of people receive every morning a message with experiences and teachings of the Dominican Sisters of Lerma, called "Challenge of love". The schedules of the offices of the Church of this convent are: daily 08:00 h, and Sundays and holidays: 11:00 h.

Duke's Passage
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Duke's Passage

The passageway created at the beginning of the 17th century that joined the Palace of the Duke of Lerma and the Collegiate Church of San Pedro. Today the section that can be visited is the junction of the Monasteries of St. Teresa and St. Clara at the Mirador de los Arcos. It is the only preserved section of the covered galleries that communicated in the XVII century, the Ducal Palace with the churches and convents of the town so that the Duke, King Philip III and his closest friends could move to the various offices without stepping on the public road. This section was built around 1609, following the Italian Renaissance tradition and in accordance with the palatial and urban conception of the Habsburgs, at the behest of the all-powerful D. Francisco Gómez de Sandoval y Rojas, the favourite of Philip III. Once the space of this unique monument, a narrow corridor elevated on arches and vaulted, the Historical Heritage Foundation of Castile and Leon has made an audiovisual installation that provides information about the character and the time of the Duke, the characteristics of the monarchy in the early seventeenth century and the relevance of the villa in its moments of splendor. However, an important part of this installation is devoted precisely to the decline of the Duke, the loss of royal favor, political satires and gossip of his fellow citizens, all through projections, virtual creations and sound effects in an evocative and somber atmosphere.

Ducal Palace and Plaza Mayor
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Ducal Palace and Plaza Mayor

Ducal Palace Characteristic of the Hapsburg period, the Duke of Lerma took advantage of the site of the old medieval castle and built according to the designs of Francisco de Mora, was built in successive phases, designed as a dwelling for the Dukes, as well as a royal residence for the court of Philip III, on the occasion of hunting retreats in the town. The layout is characteristic of Castilian palaces: a central courtyard surrounded by colonnaded galleries, alternating two bodies: the first, of 20 columns of Tuscan order with semicircular arches and the second of 20 columns of Ionic order; being the columns of a single piece. It also starts from this courtyard a sumptuous and wide cloister staircase. The main facade is made with strong ashlars, its cover is accompanied by pedestal, column and capital on each side, which is based on a semicircular frontispiece, with architrave work. The entire facade is topped by a strong stone cornice and above it rise the slate roofs, with their dormers. On those cornices and in the four corners start the four towers topped by spires also covered with slate, with large ball, weather vane and cross. The entire palace was composed of 210 iron balconies and 135 windows between dormers and railings. The Palace was used as headquarters during the Napoleonic invasion, losing its four spires. It has been restored as a Parador de Turismo, recovering the charm lost in past centuries. Plaza Mayor In front of the main facade of the Palace extends a space of rectangular plant, limited in its other sides by three "bodies of buildings". It has 75 columns of pieces of stonework with their pedestals. Over the columns, built in brick, runs the second body with 72 balconies. The square was the ideal setting for private parties (corral of comedies, bullfighting on horseback, game of reeds, luminaries, mogigangas ...), Lope de Vega or Góngora came to Lerma to represent their plays in the Plaza. But the Duke devised a barbaric variant of the Fiesta Nacional, which greatly amused the courtiers, which consisted of a cliff for the bull; once the bull was fought, he was incited to the balcony and he died naked, precipitated down the slope to the river. Of 6,862 square meters it is one of the largest squares in Spain, being the pride of the Duke at the time. About the Plaza Mayor of Lerma, Lope de Vega wrote in his work "La burgalesa de Lerma": I wish you had seen, Leonarda, the beautiful square of Lerma, a picture as in painting: strong stone pillars, balconies all the same, windows and stained glass, in one of them the king ...

Santa Clara Square
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Santa Clara Square

Secluded square, between the monastery of Santa Teresa and Santa Clara. In the center of the same, are the remains of the famous hero and guerrilla during the War of Independence, D. Jerónimo Merino Cob, "El Cura Merino". In 1808 the French armies plundered the villages of the region to stock up on supplies; he, a perfect connoisseur of the whole area, confronted them with a party of 2,000 men, controlling the Camino Real, seizing convoys and couriers of the French. For his victorious actions he was named Captain and Lieutenant Colonel successively. He won 58 battles against the French troops, among them the capture of Roa, the rescue of Burgos, Ezcaray, Hontoria del Pinar, Quintana del Puente and the brilliant intervention in the battle of Vitoria. Napoleon said of him that "he preferred the head of that priest to the conquest of five Spanish cities". He was named Field Marshal by Fernando VII. Later he fought on the Carlist side in command of 11,000 men. He died in exile in Alençon (France) in 1844; and since May 1968 his remains rest next to the "Balcón de Arlanza".

Convent of the Ascension of Our Lord
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Convent of the Ascension of Our Lord

It is the oldest of the monasteries of Lerma. It was founded by the son of the Duke, D. Cristóbal and his wife Mariana de Padilla; being in charge of the works the master Pedro de Pedrosa. The Church of great simplicity, with Latin cross plan, simple altarpiece highlighting in the center of the same detail of the Ascension. The transept has a lowered vault, adorned with the coats of arms of the founders. Of admiration are the grandiose paintings of Bartolomé Carducho. In the lower part of the choir there is a magnificent reliquary, with sculptures made by Lesmes Fernández del Moral, with a beautiful recumbent Christ by Gregorio Fernández, one of the best image makers of the Castilian School. In 1650 the façade was added in which there are baroque touches that are not seen in any building in Lerma. On June 10, 1610 the Infanta Margarita Francisca, daughter of King Philip III, was baptized in the monastery. Until the end of 2010 it was inhabited by MM. Franciscan Poor Clares. Since that date they have been called: "IESU COMMUNIO", a new religious Institute under the protection of Pope Benedict XVI, maintaining the contemplative life. In their new charism, the evangelization of young people occupies a central place. They make delicious pastries that can be purchased at the monastery's bakery.

Mother of God Convent
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Mother of God Convent

Located in the outskirts, next to the old N-I; founded for family reasons by the Duke of Lerma, since the mother-in-law of his first-born, the Duke of Uceda, the Countess of Santa Gadea, Doña Luisa de Padilla y Acuña, entered as prioress of its foundation. The works began in 1608 with the personal intervention of the architect Francisco de Mora, although the definitive traces were used by Fray Alberto de la Madre de Dios. The convent is austere, classic, monotonous, with almost no decorative elements, as was the norm in the works of the Carmelite friar. The church has a simple Latin cross floor plan, with a choir at the foot, and a classicist altarpiece, with Corinthian style columns. It emphasizes the carving of Santa Teresa of the XVII century, and the Virgin of Carmen existing in the Church of the Monastery. The height and sobriety of the monastery walls are surprising. Inhabited until the end of 2016; the 8 Discalced Carmelite Mothers who remained in the Monastery moved to the town of Villanueva de la Jara (Cuenca) where they live in another monastery of the same Order.

Convent of Santa Teresa. Church of San Juan
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Convent of Santa Teresa. Church of San Juan

Built for the Carmelite friars, it was inaugurated on October 27, 1617, attended by Philip III with all his Court. The church has a Latin cross floor plan, with an ashlar stone facade, with two Doric architraved pilasters, which have a triangular pediment. In the center, a niche with semicircular frontispiece topped by balls, with the image of the Doctor of the Church. Above it, a window opens to give luminosity to the high choir of the church; on both sides, four re-sunken signs and the coats of arms of the Dukes and of the Carmelite Order. The transfer of the Blessed Sacrament to the Convent of Santa Teresa took place on October 28, 1618; giving the Duke to the Community the necessary ornaments for the cult. At present the Church is used as the Parish of Lema, from November 1 until mid-May, when the services are held at the Excolegiata de San Pedro. The schedules of the offices are: Daily at 20:00, Sundays and holidays at 13:00. The Monastery whose central cloister has two floors and basement, today houses inside the Town Hall, Courts, Tourist Office, Adecoar and Sodebur.

Santo Domingo Convent
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Santo Domingo Convent

The Duke also decided to build a convent for his protected Dominican friars, commissioning the traces to Fray Alberto de la Madre de Dios. The main façade of the church stands out with baroque elements; the coats of arms of the Dukes of Lerma and the image of the Saint founder of the Order of Preachers appear. It crowns a magnificent belfry, which supports the stork's nest. At the end of the summer of 1617 the construction of the convent of Santo Domingo was finished, which cost 20,000 ducats, and the Dominican friars moved to their new residence. Juan Gómez de Mora designed the main altarpiece; the bishop of Cuenca gave the first and third bodies, already made, and the carpenter of Lerma, Pedro García had to adapt them to Mora's project. Philip III visited it for the first time, accompanied by his sons, on the afternoon of Monday, October 16, 1617. Subsequently, the valuable orchard was fenced and the Duke of Lerma donated valuable ornaments and clothes to the community. After the Napoleonic invasion and after suffering a very serious fire in the 20th century, it was uninhabited by the friars; it was used as barracks and for many years as a High School, Vocational Training, Secondary School and Baccalaureate for Lerma and its region until December 2009. At present, it is a multipurpose complex of the City Council of Lerma.

Medieval Bridge
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Medieval Bridge

It is certain that there was a primitive bridge on the road from Lerma to Burgos to cross the Arlanza River. The new bridge was not built until the fortification of the town of Lerma and once its firm walled position was secured. It was built with strong stone ashlars and was provided with its corresponding cutwater pillars and abutments.

Hermitage of the Humilladero
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Hermitage of the Humilladero

The Duke created a beautiful garden on the banks of the river, with an orchard and a private hunting reserve. The gardens were composed of ponds with swans, gazebos, alabaster fountains, covered walkways... In addition, the Duke built 7 hermitages that added devotion to the beauty of the park. Pope Paul V in 1609 granted to the faithful who prayed in each of these hermitages, the same indulgences enjoyed by those who visited the seven churches of Rome. Today we can contemplate the Humilladero, as the only vestige of the magnificence of the gardens.

Prison Arch
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Prison Arch

Well-preserved residue of the main gate of the Lerma wall. It consists of a turreted arch flanked by two defensive cubes with their arrow slits. The interior of the cubes is accessed by two spiral staircases. The upper brick body is an extension made by the Duke of Lerma in 1610 to serve as a prison. Today, it is the headquarters of the Regulatory Council of the Arlanza Denomination of Origin.

La Piedad Scenic Space
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La Piedad Scenic Space

The hermitage of Nuestra Señora de La Piedad is the only building in Lerma prior to the urban remodeling of the Duke, together with the arch of the jail, and it is the primitive church of San Juan Bautista, relegated to a simple hermitage after the great constructions of the XVII century. Today, it is used as a theater, called "Espacio Escénico La Piedad", with numerous musical and theatrical performances and family shows throughout the year.

Medieval Houses
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Medieval Houses

Passing the entrance arch, we reach the medieval town center; the old town square with its typical arcades, Reventón Street, La Paloma, Santa Caliopa or José Zorrilla, where he owned a house that is still preserved today. At the end of the ninth century Lerma was walled, and in the center of the village stood the primitive Church of San Juan, now called Ermita de la Piedad, now used as a theater.

Los Arcos viewpoint
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Los Arcos viewpoint

A viewpoint from which you can see the entire Arlanza valley; one of the best views of the surroundings of Lerma. Rafael Alberti wrote about it: Above, the balcony of the cold, the balustrades of the air, the sky and my eyes. Below, the map: three rivers and a broken bridge, with no one. And Miguel de Unamuno refers to the views from it: First stop in Lerma, in the spacious square of the ducal palace, which with one of its arms encircles the town. Below, in the valley, among greenery, flows the Arlanza, sienna red.