Lerma: Gateway to the Arlanza Valley, a Journey to the Golden Age

The Ducal Palace of Lerma, built over the old 15th century castle and designed by Francisco de Mora, was conceived as the residence of the Duke of Lerma and royal lodging for Philip III. Inspired by the Castilian palace typology, it has a central courtyard with two galleries: 20 Tuscan columns in the lower one and 20 Ionic columns in the upper one, all monolithic. Its façade, robust and elegant, is adorned with a pedestal façade, semicircular pediment, cornice and slate spires. Burned down during the Napoleonic occupation, it was restored and reopened as a Parador Nacional in 2003, recovering its original splendor.

The Mirador de los Arcos, located in the Plaza de Santa Clara in Lerma, is a corner full of history and unparalleled views of the Arlanza Valley. From here, the Duke of Lerma used to walk along a passageway elevated above the arches to discreetly attend religious ceremonies in the collegiate church, without mingling with the people. In the center of the square lies the famous guerrilla fighter Jerónimo Merino Cob, known as Cura Merino. The poet José Zorrilla also lived here, who found inspiration and friendship in this town, dedicating his "Don Juan Tenorio" to the corregidor Paco Vallejo. A place where history, art and landscape converge.

The ex-collegiate church of San Pedro, promoted by the archbishop of Seville and uncle of the Duke of Lerma, Don Cristóbal de Rojas, was taken over by the duke himself, who adapted its design to the Herrerian style. The reform, begun in 1613 by Fray Alberto de la Madre de Dios, resulted in a temple of three naves with ambulatory, chapels, choir and baptistery. In 1616 it was elevated to a collegiate church by Pope Paul V, being independent of the archbishopric of Burgos. Its monumental south façade has Doric columns and ducal coats of arms, and preserves its original wooden door. The main altarpiece, baroque and gilded, stands out for its ornamental exuberance.

The Plaza Mayor of Lerma, with its 6,862 square meters without counting the arcades, is one of the largest in Spain. With a trapezoidal floor plan, it is enclosed by three bodies of buildings with 75 stone columns and a second level of brick with 72 balconies. Conceived as a stage for courtly celebrations, it hosted comedies, bullfights on horseback, luminarias and cane games. Even writers such as Lope de Vega and Góngora presented their works here. One of the most singular activities consisted of making the bull run towards a balcony from where, without restraint, it fell into the precipice. It was the pride of the Duke and the epicenter of court life.